What does the P0113 code mean?

P0113 means the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is reading a very high resistance, which the computer interprets as an unrealistically cold or open signal. The IAT sensor tells the computer how warm the incoming air is so it can fine-tune the fuel mixture. On many vehicles the IAT is built into the mass airflow sensor. The fix is usually replacing the sensor or repairing its wiring.

What are the most common causes of P0113?

The most common causes are: Failed IAT sensor (often integrated with the MAF sensor); Open or shorted wiring to the sensor; Corroded or disconnected sensor connector; Dirty MAF/IAT sensor element.

Is it safe to drive with a P0113 code?

Usually yes - P0113 rarely changes how the car drives. Still fix it, because it keeps the check-engine light on and will fail an emissions test.

How much does it cost to fix P0113?

Typical US independent-shop repair cost for P0113 runs about $75 - $250, depending on the root cause. Common fixes: Replace the IAT (or combined MAF/IAT) sensor; Repair open or shorted wiring to the sensor; Clean or reseat the sensor connector.

P0113: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 1 Circuit High

What P0113 actually means

P0113 means the intake air temperature sensor circuit is reading high - the voltage the PCM sees corresponds to an implausibly cold reading, which in these circuits usually indicates an open connection rather than genuinely frigid air. The PCM uses intake air temperature to calculate air density and trim the fuel mixture, so a wrong reading skews fuelling in every condition. The good news is that this is one of the cheapest and most accessible codes on this site, because the sensor is often built into the mass airflow assembly right on top of the engine.

How to diagnose P0113 step by step

Step 1: Compare intake air temperature against coolant temperature on a cold start After sitting overnight both sensors should read close to ambient and close to each other. If coolant temperature reads a sensible 60F while intake air temperature reads far below ambient or shows an obviously invalid figure, the intake sensor circuit is the problem rather than the actual air.
Step 2: Inspect the sensor connector for damage and corrosion An open circuit is what drives the reading high, and a disconnected or corroded connector is the most common reason. Unplug it, look for green corrosion, spread pins, or a cracked housing, and confirm the terminals grip firmly when reconnected.
Step 3: Check for a broken wire between sensor and PCM These sensors often sit on the intake tube where the harness flexes every time the engine rocks on its mounts. Wiggle the harness with the engine running while watching live data - a reading that jumps confirms an intermittent break.
Step 4: Test the sensor resistance and compare to specification It is a thermistor, so resistance falls as temperature rises. Measure it cold, then warm it gently with a heat gun and watch resistance drop smoothly. No change, or an infinite reading, means the sensor is dead.
Step 5: Jumper the connector to confirm the circuit With the key on, briefly bridge the two sensor terminals. The reading should swing to an extreme hot value. If it does, the wiring and PCM are fine and the sensor is at fault. If nothing changes, the fault lies in the harness or the PCM.
Step 6: Clean the sensor if it is integrated with the MAF On assemblies where the intake air temperature element sits inside the mass airflow housing, oil residue from an over-oiled aftermarket air filter insulates it and skews readings. Clean it with MAF-specific cleaner only.

The most common P0113 misdiagnosis

Replacing the sensor before checking the connector is the common misstep, because an open circuit in the wiring produces exactly the same high reading as a dead sensor. Unplug and inspect the connector first - it is free and it is frequently the actual fault.

Tools you need for P0113

Digital multimeter - Measuring thermistor resistance is the definitive test and takes two minutes.
Scanner with live sensor data - Comparing intake air against coolant temperature at cold start immediately shows which sensor is lying.
Heat gun - Warming the sensor while watching resistance confirms it responds at all.
MAF sensor cleaner - For integrated sensors fouled by oil from an over-oiled air filter.

Parts you may need for P0113

Intake air temperature sensor - Inexpensive as a standalone part and usually a single-connector job.
Mass airflow sensor assembly - Required only where the temperature element is integrated and not separately serviceable.
Electrical connector repair kit - For a corroded or broken connector, which is more often the fault than the sensor itself.

P0113: DIY or pay a shop?

Difficulty: Easy. Time: 0.25 - 1 hours. DIY parts: $15 - $120. Shop total: $90 - $250.

Probably the easiest code on this entire site to fix yourself. The sensor typically sits on top of the engine in the intake tube, held by one clip and one connector, and the whole job is a few minutes with basic hand tools. Paying shop labour for this one is hard to justify unless the sensor is integrated into an expensive assembly.

How to stop P0113 coming back

Avoid over-oiling aftermarket air filters. Oiled cotton gauze filters shed oil that coats the intake air temperature and mass airflow elements downstream, insulating them and skewing readings. If you run one, oil it sparingly and let it dry fully before fitting. Track your air filter service in ServiceSage so you know when it was last cleaned and oiled - the maintenance detail that quietly causes sensor faults. Track this maintenance free.