P0113: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 1 Circuit High

P0113 quick answer

P0113 means the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor signal is reading high - a voltage the computer takes as impossibly cold air, which usually means an open circuit: an unplugged or corroded connector, a broken wire, or a failed sensor. On many cars the IAT sensor is built into the mass airflow sensor. It is safe to drive; check the connector before buying a sensor.

Severity: Low
Can I drive? Yes. An IAT sensor fault has little to no effect on drivability for most vehicles - at most you may notice slightly rough running or a minor fuel-economy dip.
Typical fix: $75 - $250

Also written as PO113 or P113.

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What P0113 means

P0113 means the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is reading a very high resistance, which the computer interprets as an unrealistically cold or open signal. The IAT sensor tells the computer how warm the incoming air is so it can fine-tune the fuel mixture. On many vehicles the IAT is built into the mass airflow sensor. The fix is usually replacing the sensor or repairing its wiring.

Symptoms of P0113

Check-engine light on
Slightly rough running or hesitation
Minor drop in fuel economy
Occasional hard starting in extreme cases

Is it safe to drive with P0113?

Yes. An IAT sensor fault has little to no effect on drivability for most vehicles - at most you may notice slightly rough running or a minor fuel-economy dip. It is not a safety concern, so there is no need to stop driving; get it fixed at your convenience.

Common causes of P0113

Failed IAT sensor (often integrated with the MAF sensor)
Open or shorted wiring to the sensor
Corroded or disconnected sensor connector
Dirty MAF/IAT sensor element

Listed roughly most-likely first. Confirm with a scan tool and the freeze-frame data before replacing parts.

What the P0113 fix costs

Fix	DIY parts	At a shop
Clean or reseat the sensor connector	$0 - $10	$20 - $60
Replace the IAT (or MAF/IAT) sensor	$20 - $100	$75 - $250
Repair open or shorted wiring to the sensor	$10 - $40	$80 - $200

Ranges are rounded and for the US market only - actual price depends on region, shop labor rates, and the exact make and model.

Parts that commonly fix P0113

Intake air temperature sensor - Cause #1 once the connector checks out - on many cars it is built into the MAF sensor, so check which one yours has
Electrical connector repair kit - An unplugged, corroded or broken connector reads exactly like a dead sensor - the free check comes first
Digital multimeter - Measures the sensor resistance and the wiring back to the computer before you buy anything
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor cleaner - Where the IAT element sits in the MAF housing, oil from an over-oiled filter can coat it
OBD-II scanner - Reads and clears codes, and shows live data so you fix the cause rather than the symptom

These open an Amazon search - add your year, make and model, because most of these parts are fitment-specific.

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What P0113 actually means

P0113 means the intake air temperature sensor circuit is reading high - the voltage the PCM sees corresponds to an implausibly cold reading, which in these circuits usually indicates an open connection rather than genuinely frigid air. The PCM uses intake air temperature to calculate air density and trim the fuel mixture, so a wrong reading skews fuelling in every condition. The good news is that this is one of the cheapest and most accessible codes on this site, because the sensor is often built into the mass airflow assembly right on top of the engine.

How to diagnose P0113 step by step

Step 1: Compare intake air temperature against coolant temperature on a cold start After sitting overnight both sensors should read close to ambient and close to each other. If coolant temperature reads a sensible 60F while intake air temperature reads far below ambient or shows an obviously invalid figure, the intake sensor circuit is the problem rather than the actual air.
Step 2: Inspect the sensor connector for damage and corrosion An open circuit is what drives the reading high, and a disconnected or corroded connector is the most common reason. Unplug it, look for green corrosion, spread pins, or a cracked housing, and confirm the terminals grip firmly when reconnected.
Step 3: Check for a broken wire between sensor and PCM These sensors often sit on the intake tube where the harness flexes every time the engine rocks on its mounts. Wiggle the harness with the engine running while watching live data - a reading that jumps confirms an intermittent break.
Step 4: Test the sensor resistance and compare to specification It is a thermistor, so resistance falls as temperature rises. Measure it cold, then warm it gently with a heat gun and watch resistance drop smoothly. No change, or an infinite reading, means the sensor is dead.
Step 5: Jumper the connector to confirm the circuit With the key on, briefly bridge the two sensor terminals. The reading should swing to an extreme hot value. If it does, the wiring and PCM are fine and the sensor is at fault. If nothing changes, the fault lies in the harness or the PCM.
Step 6: Clean the sensor if it is integrated with the MAF On assemblies where the intake air temperature element sits inside the mass airflow housing, oil residue from an over-oiled aftermarket air filter insulates it and skews readings. Clean it with MAF-specific cleaner only.

The most common P0113 misdiagnosis

Replacing the sensor before checking the connector is the common misstep, because an open circuit in the wiring produces exactly the same high reading as a dead sensor. Unplug and inspect the connector first - it is free and it is frequently the actual fault.

Tools you need for P0113

Scanner with live sensor data - Comparing intake air against coolant temperature at cold start immediately shows which sensor is lying.
Heat gun - Warming the sensor while watching resistance confirms it responds at all.
MAF sensor cleaner - For integrated sensors fouled by oil from an over-oiled air filter.

Parts you may need for P0113

Mass airflow sensor assembly - Required only where the temperature element is integrated and not separately serviceable.

P0113: DIY or pay a shop?

Difficulty: Easy. Time: 0.25 - 1 hours. DIY parts: $15 - $120. Shop total: $90 - $250.

Probably the easiest code on this entire site to fix yourself. The sensor typically sits on top of the engine in the intake tube, held by one clip and one connector, and the whole job is a few minutes with basic hand tools. Paying shop labour for this one is hard to justify unless the sensor is integrated into an expensive assembly.

How to stop P0113 coming back

Avoid over-oiling aftermarket air filters. Oiled cotton gauze filters shed oil that coats the intake air temperature and mass airflow elements downstream, insulating them and skewing readings. If you run one, oil it sparingly and let it dry fully before fitting. Track your air filter service in ServiceSage so you know when it was last cleaned and oiled - the maintenance detail that quietly causes sensor faults. Track this maintenance free.

P0113 FAQ

How much does it cost to fix P0113?

Typical US independent-shop repair cost for P0113 runs about $75 - $250, depending on the root cause. Common fixes: Clean or reseat the sensor connector (about $20 - $60 at a shop); Replace the IAT (or MAF/IAT) sensor (about $75 - $250 at a shop); Repair open or shorted wiring to the sensor (about $80 - $200 at a shop).

Will P0113 clear itself?

No, not on its own. P0113 will keep coming back every time the relevant monitor re-runs until the underlying cause is actually repaired - clearing it with a scan tool without fixing what triggered it only delays the light coming back on.